I Sugar Rush’ed this wonder at Serious Eats today. Éclairs are one of my favorite forms of dessert (pudding, gelato, and warm madelines also belong in this bucket). This is Gourmandise, a strawberry éclair with strawberries, vanilla-mascarpone, and vanilla bean pastry cream whipped with candied lemon zest. It’s clean and light, and the choux pastry dough, super fresh.
Payard’s doing a lot of new desserts that are exclusive to this …16 in total. Want to see them all? Here we go!
Religeuse Revisitée: The classic, revisited. The bottom is filled with vanilla bean mascarpone cream (same cream that goes into the strawberry éclair), and the top is filled with a whipped Valrhona chocolate cream.
Tarte aux Fruits de la Passion: Almond tart shell with a lilikoi filling and olive oil (!) marshamallows.
George V: Dark chocolate cake, vanilla mousse, salted caramel, and roasted peanuts.
Tarte Caramel: Almond tart shell and white sacher biscuit. A silky caramel ganache and a glossy finish of caramel beurre salé (aka salted butter caramel).
Trianon: Flourless chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, caramel creméux, a dark chocolate glaze and a sprinkle of fleur del sel.
Mont Saint-Michel: Coconut sponge cake base, mango and lilikoi cremeux, a bit of fresh raspberry coulis in the center and a literal cloud (the best part!!) of souffléd Italian meringue. This one is a real showstopper. Can you imagine doing a giant version for you birthday cake?
Tarte au Chocolat Guanaja: Each chocolate dessert just gets more and more rich. This one features chocolate sponge cake, dark chocolate ganache, Grue de Cacao nibs, and chocolate chantilly cream.
Tarte aux Fraises Revisitée: So many components and seriously beautiful. First, almond tart shell. Then, lemon-verbena cream, raspberry macarons, and strawberries.
Decadence: Chocolate times four. One: chocolate crémeux. Two: dark chocolate mousse. Three: flourless chocolate cake. Four: Crispy Grue de Cacao nibs.
Tout Vanille: Payard uses two types of vanilla here: Mexican and Tahitian. Vanilla bean pound cake, Mexican vanilla mascarpone cream, sablé breton biscuit, and Tahitian vanilla bavarois. Payard offered a very similar version of this dessert when he briefly operated a location of François Chocolate Bar inside Maboussin.
Louvre: Alternating layers of hazelnut mousse, chocolate mousse, hazelnut dacquoise cake, and a hazelnut wafer. All enrobed in a dark chocolate glaze. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many shiny desserts in a single NYC pâtisserie
St. Germain: Vanilla bean pound cake at the base, topped with raspberry mousse and vanilla ganache. Tucked in the very center of the mousse is a surprise…a mini-raspberry macaron. Finished with a pour of raspberry glaze.
And onto the verrines! There are three types. This is the Verrine Tout Chocolat and the layers go like this: chocolate mousse, dark chocolate sabayon, dark chocolate “leaves” with fleur de sel. A single chocolate macaron and flaky caramel chips.
Verrine Tiramisu: Layers of mascarpone mousse, espresso-soaked vanilla bean pound cake, and brown sugar crumbles.
The third verrine is seasonal, and right now it’s the Verrine Tout Maroon with black currant cremeux, chestnut mousse, berry gelée, vanilla bean cake, and chestnut puree. You could almost call it a variation on the Mont Blanc…perhaps a trend?
P.S. Maybe one day he will bring back the Raspberry Verrine , fingers crossed.