
The other week I attended a tea tasting class co-hosted by Francois-Xavier Delmas of
Le Palais des Thés (who flew in from France just for the occasion!) and Melanie Franks from the French Culinary Institute. Does Melanie's name sound familiar? It should! She prepared this entire
six-course tea dinner at In Pursuit of Tea earlier this year. When it comes to culinary tea/cooking with tea, two names pop up most often.

First, Cynthia Gold, author of the
Culinary Tea cookbook. I first met Cynthia at the World Tea East when I attend her
Culinary Tea Seminar. It was a class for small business owners (cafes, tea shops) who wish to incorporate tea into their menu. And not just for drinking. But for salads, soups, pastas, etc. The class was literally like her book come to life - and that is a good thing. I saw Cynthia again at a
tea event hosted by The Meaning of Tea where she made a variety of tea-infused hors d'oeuvres. She's based in Boston and is the Tea Sommelier at Boston Park Plaza Hotel.
Here in NYC, Melanie Franks' name is much more familiar. She's the go-to gal for tea-inspired cooking. In addition to being a chef-instructor at the FCI, she's also a tea chef consultant with In Pursuit of Tea, and a certified tea specialist with the STI. You can literally ask Melanie any question about pairing tea with food. Or how to infuse a certain type of tea into anything from fish to bread, and which tea brings out the flavor of which cookie, and she can answer you in a second. That is serious talent.

The first half of this tea class was conducted by Francois-Xavier Delmas - the founder of
Le Palais des Thés, one of my
favorite French tea
companies. They've been around since 1987 and all their teas come directly from the source/grower, so no third party or wholesaler is ever involved. And though it seems like this is how it always should be...you'd be surprised to learn how many companies purchase teas in bulk from the same wholesalers. A little disturbing actually, but we'll save that talk for another day. Every industry has a dirty underbelly, tea included. Which is why when you find a good company you can trust, stick with it!
Francois-Xavier walked us through a tasting of the following five teas:
1.
Long Jing - Also known as "Dragon Well." From Zhejiang, China.
2.
Tamaryokucha Imperial - Japanese green tea from the island of Kyushu.
3.
Dong Ding - Oolong from Taiwan (this tea also pairs well with quiche)
4.
Darjeeling Thurbo - Darjeeling from India
5.
Qimen Imperial - Comes from Huangshan in the Anhui province (where we
went just this summer!)
I wish I had a photo capturing the different colors of the tea liquors all at once - they varied tremendously, and it was crazy to think that all these varieties essentially come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis. I also appreciated the fact that we tasted only pure teas (and not blends), which gave a better sense of the quality of tea alone without many interferences.

After the five teas, Melanie did a demo on how to prepare this dish of Tea-Cured Trout with Tea-Smoked Yogurt. It was actually
the exact same dish as the one she served at the tea dinner, only plated a little different. This was actually my favorite dish from the dinner, so learning how to make it was a real treat. Here are the components:
1. Tea-Cured Arctic Char. She used trout for the dinner and arctic char this time around. You can use any white fish or salmon. Cure the fish in a 2:1:1 ratio mix of salt:brown sugar: lapsang souchong.
2. Tea-Smoked Yogurt. Make a tea-infused oil first by heating up a neutral oil (corn, grapeseed, canola), adding the loose leaf lapsang souchong. Remove from heat immediately and then let infuse for 15 minutes before straining out the tea leaves. Blend a bit of the oil with Greek yogurt.
3. Niçoise Olives
4. Cippolini Onions
5. Micro Greens
6. Citrus Segments (orange, lemon)
7. Garlic Chips
Plan to recreate this dish at home soon, so will make sure to do a step by step post.

Finishing on sweets and cheese of course. A wedge of Fontina and Humbolt Fog to pair with cups of Sencha. The cookie is a Chocolate-Hojicha Cookie. When most people do tea cookies, it's usually a matcha cookie, so this was a very fun change. Melanie grinds up hojicha in a spice grinder and uses the ground hojicha to replace most of the flour in this recipe. It's impossible to not get excited about infusing tea into everything from salads, meats, sweets, and soup...the possibilities are endless!