Hello from Mongolia! It’s about midnight here but I’m too excited to sleep just yet. Mongolia was not on our original itinerary for this trip. But my parents have a knack for springing last minute surprises. So here we are with a family friend who said our trip would not be complete without a day in Mongolia.
Dining Room for Lunch
Who were we to refuse? The flight from Beijing to Mongolia is just an hour. We landed at noon at Ordos* (鄂尔多斯) airport in inner Mongolia** yesterday and were whisked away to lunch. Or rather a feast (which would characterize most of our meals in China, but more on this later!) Save for Hong Kong, each city we visited was either for seeing friends or business purposes, and friends of my parents were incredibly generous in making this a once in a lifetime holiday we never expected to come across. We were lucky to have drivers and local friends/guides who made the trip absolutely seamless and took care of every little detail down to making sure my sister’s favorite snacks were in the car. Talk about hospitality.
Lunch was a parade of 30 dishes for a 12 people (us 5 visiting and 7 local friends) at a restaurant in the city center. The bulk of the dishes were served either cold or at room temperature, followed by about ten hot dishes. Steamed buns stuffed with lamb, dumplings similar to xiao long bao, and hand pulled noodles in soup were served at the end of the meal.
This was my favourite of the meat dishes…a baby pig no longer than 18-inches. Roasted till the skin was crackly crisp, seriously effortless eating. The meat was milky tender and sweet. We were instructed to dip some of the skin into a bowl of sugar – they say this enhances the flavor of the skin.
Bellies full, another hour of driving took us to the desert, home of the Singing Sand Dunes. It’s so named because when you slide down the sand it makes this soft whistling noise. NYT has an article on “Secrets of the Singing Sand Dunes.” But more than sliding down dunes, what I loved was just standing in the middle of the desert – the sheer size of the surrounding sand dunes is simultaneously overwhelming and beautiful. NYC is very much not the center of the universe after all
We took part in camel riding throughout the desert for a good part of the afternoon. It was my first time seeing camels or sand dunes, and the feeling was very much surreal. At one point I found myself eating cold watermelon on a rock between dunes and my first thought was how about I just stay here forever? Well, forever was until sunset and I wish you could have seen the sky with shades of deep blue and the pinkish hue from the sun. We rented a vehicle to drive up and down the dunes till the sun went down…with plenty of sunscreen and wide-brimmed hats of course.
From there, dinner was a 3-hour drive to a remote farm that’s part of a government initiative to educate both visitors and locals on the farming and agriculture of Mongolia. It’s a huge piece of land, almost a town in itself, coupling farmland with restaurants and rental villas. Though we missed the lamb slaughtering which takes place each morning, we received a tour of all the animals and vegetables and fruits. In the future they’ll also be producing local liquors here. The customs and rituals involved in the types of meals we partook in deserves a post all its own, so I’ll stick to just food in this post.
A whole lamb was prepared 9-ways (9 is a lucky number, and 99 is the luckiest). Lamb face was served as an appetizer with the cold dishes. Then wind-dried lamb jerky, lamb soup, lamb-stuffed dumplings, lamb stew with soft buns, pulled lamb with cold noodles, roasted lamb ribs, hunks of lamb in a millet soup, and lamb and blood sausages. Again it was another 30-course meal that left us absolutely stuffed and happily drunk on the local bai jiu. Bai jiu translates to white white but that’s fairly deceiving as the alcohol content is much higher! Vodka is a more appropriate comparison.
Dinner started at 8pm and finished at 1am – I was worried about the long ride back to the city. But then it turned out we were staying a villa on the farm! As part of the government initiative, many villas were built with the idea that people could visit as a weekend getaway and have a complete trip without leaving the farm. A farm-resort? It’s not yet open to the public and we were honored to be the first overnight guests in one of the villas.
Sleep at 2am and up again at 7am! Early breakfast at the same restaurant on the farm and because our planned One Day in Mongolia was so much fun…we decided to stay another day…
*Go Katayama has a must-read article – completely with excellent photos, on Ordos and the (supposed) over-development of this new city.
**Another fun fact: Ordos in inner Mongolia is the wealthiest city per capita in all of China…who would have guessed?!